"TAPAKTUAN, A TOURIST CITY NOT YET SURE OF ITSELF"

T

he scattered sections of newspaper strewn across a wood table, under the canvas roof of a warung in Medan, were from the local daily, Waspada (Vigilant). In their Sunday travel section, was an article whose title is translated above. I'd arrived in Medan at 6am that morning, after two great weeks in Tapaktuan and a ten hour overnight drive.

During an enjoyable afternoon (passing the time before my flight back to Jakarta) in conversation with the warung proprietor and his customers, I asked him if I could take the article with me. I thought it might be cool to share this article later with my readers, and I had a new (hand-me-down) scanner waiting to be tried out back home. The result follows below. I scanned, then OCR'ed the text, made manual corrections and fed it into the Indonesian Translation Wizard to get a rough translation first (and save some time), and then edited again to make it readable. The two newspaper photos are a bit wrinkly from the trip home, but I've added a few of my own pictures where they are relevant to the text.

Aceh is referred to now as Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam, abbreviated to NAD in the article. The legendary Tuan Pertapa, from whom the town derives its name, I have given as "Master Ascetic," a literal translation. Tuan is a high honorific pronoun; Tapak Tuan then, is "Master's Footprint."

The article's authors make a bit much out of a mere hint of Balinese styling in their hotel's dining room. In my observation, the people of Tapaktuan are not lacking in belief in their town's tourism potential, nor in their own traditional arts and styles. Now that the peace agreement has been reached between GAM and the national government (proceeding well for almost six months now), and with a local airport offering flights from Banda Aceh and Medan, they are most anxious to get their tourism industry kicked into gear. What seems to be lacking at this point is commitment of support from local government.

Tapaktuan, Kota Wisata Yang Belum Percaya Diri
Waspada, January 22, 2006

Potensi dunia pariwisata Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam (NAD) sesungguhnya sangat menjanjikan untuk meningkatkan pendapatan daerah serta ekonomi masyarakatnya. Mengapa? Sebab Aceh bagaikan kawasan yang tidak ada cacatnya terutama untuk pemandangan pantai atau wisata air. Lihatlah pasir putih di sepanjang pantai yang landai di manapun kita berada. Langit yang biro, ombak yang berdebur memecah ke pantai dan laut yang beriak serta berkilau adalah pemandangan yang sangat mempesona.

Salah satu pemandangan pantai di Kabupaten Aceh Selatan yang indah dan permai. One of the lovely and magnficent coastal scenes in South Aceh Regency.

The tourism world's potential in Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam (NAD) is actually quite promising to increase the income of the area as well as the people's economy. Why? Because Aceh as a region lacks nothing, particularly for coastal scenery or water tourism. Look at the white sand all along the beaches wherever we are. Blue skies, the pounding waves break on the coast and the rippling, glittering sea is a very enchanting scene.

Salah satu daerah wisata yang sangat indah pemandangannya di NAD adalah Aceh Selatan. Kebetulan ketika mengunjungi kawasan tersebut kami sampai pada dinihari sehingga belum melihat suasana alamnya kecuali deburan ombak yang terdengar sampai ke kamar Hotel Dian Rana, Tapaktuan.

Hotel Dian Rana, on the seafront of Tapaktuan

One of the tourism areas that has very beautiful scenery in NAD is South Aceh. Actually when visiting this region we arrived very early, so we did not yet see the natural atmosphere except for the pounding of the waves that could be heard in the room of the Dian Rana Hotel, Tapaktuan.

Namun begitu pagi tiba, mulailah terlihat keindahan pemandangan alam yang jauh mengalahkan keindahan lukisan pelukis sekaliber apapun di dunia ini. Di kejauhan terlihat gunung yang menghijau bagaikan muncul di permukaan laut jernih yang biru kelam. Riak laut bagaikan berkejaran dan memecah sesampai di pantai sehingga menimbulkan suara yang mengasyikkan. Suara kicauan burung yang gembira menyambut pagi yang indah sungguh merupakan suasana yang sangat jauh berbeda dari keadaan sehari-hari di kota.

Looking down upon nearby Batu Itam

However just as morning arrived, we began to see the beauty of a natural scene that far overcame the beauty of a painting by an artist of any calibre in this world. In the distance were lush green mountains that emerged from a clear sea of deep blue. Sea ripples chased one another and broke on the beach making a captivating sound. The chirping voices of happy birds welcoming the beautiful morning really created an atmosphere that was very far different from the everyday situation in the city.

Tetapi memang sungguh mengherankan. Tidak ada terlihat wisatawan yang menikmati pemandangan alam yang indah tersebut kecuai kami yang baru tiba dari Kota Medan di penghujung tahun barusan. Padahal kalau wisatawan ada, pasti wisata airnya akan hidup.

But it was quite surprising indeed. None of it was seen by tourists enjoying this beautiful natural scenery, other than ourselves who had just arrived from Medan City at the New Year. In fact if tourists were there, surely water tourism will thrive.

Memang Kota Tapaktuan, Ibukota Kabupaten Aceh Selatan adalah salah satu kota wisatawan yang belum 'dijual' secara maksimal sehingga belum banyak pelancong domestik apalagi mancanegara yang berkunjung ke kawasan tersebut.

Indeed Tapaktuan City, the capital of South Aceh Regency is one of tourist towns that hasn't yet been 'sold' maximally, so as yet not many domestic tourists, much less foreign ones have visited this region.

The old Dutch nilam oil factory - the sign dates it to 1921. The tomb of Tuan Pertapa is directly across the street from here. Nilam oil is used in manufacturing perfumes.

Padahal menurut catatan sejarah Kota Tapaktuan yang luas wilayahnya 115 km2 sudah dikenal Bangsa Eropa sekitar tahun 1974. [Kemungkinan maksudnya 1774 - red.] Kota yang terisolasi karena topografi terkurung oleh gunung dan laut menjadi kawasan untuk mendapatkan rempah oleh dunia luar.

In fact according to the history of Tapaktuan City, whose territory covers an area of 115 km2, it was known to the Europeans around 1974. [I think he must mean 1774 - ed.] The city that was isolated because of topography, imprisoned by the mountains and sea, became a region to get spices by the outside world.

Adalah Jonathan Carnes, seorang kapten kapal yang membawa pelaut-pelaut America untuk melakukan perdagangan ke Tapaktuan. Mereka membawa kebutuhan masyarakat dan menukarnya dengan rempah-rempah.

It was Jonathan Carnes, captain of a ship that brought American sailors to carry out trade with Tapaktuan. They brought needed goods for the people and exchanged them for spices.

In the old mesjid nearby, there were some early photos of the town. This one shows the same nilam oil factory at the right side. I believe that must be a Dutch man in the back row.

Perdagangan langsung antara penduduk pribumi dengan bangsa-bangsa luar itu terjadi justru karena Kota Tapaktuan bebas dari pengawasan Kerajaan Aceh sebab keterisolirannya. Jalan satu-satunya ke kawasan itu pada masa itu adalah melalui jalur laut.

The direct trade between the indigenous inhabitants and the outside nations happened precisely because Tapaktuan City was free from the supervision of the Acehnese Kingdom, because of its isolation. The only way to the region in this period was the sea route.

Sedangkan untuk mencapai Kota Tapaktuan dari Banda Aceh melalui darat memerlukan waktu berhari-hari karena jalannya belum sebaik sekarang. Apalagi dari Kota Medan. Padahal jarak Tapaktuan- Banda Aceh hanya 500 km dan 487 km dari Kota Medan.

Whereas to reach Tapaktuan City from Banda Aceh by land took days, because the roads were not as good as at present. Moreover from Medan City. In fact Tapaktuan's distance from Banda Aceh is only 500 km, and 487 km from Medan City.

Kota Naga __.-^-.__ Dragon City

Kota Tapaktuan juga dikenal dengan julukan Kota Naga. Julukan itu diambil dari legenda rakyat yang menceritakan tentang pertarungan hidup mati antara Tuan Pertapa dengan seekor naga. Tatkala tongkat sakti Tuan Pertapa tersebut dilemparkan ke tubuh sang naga, jasad binatang yang dimitoskan itu hancur berderai.

The Naga emerges from his cave, tucked into a mountainside at the edge of town.

Tapaktuan City is also known by the nickname of Dragon City. The nickname was taken from a people's legend, which told all about the life and death struggle between Master Ascetic and a dragon. When the supernatural power staff of this Master Ascetic was thrown into the body the dragon, the mythological animal's body was smashed to pieces.

Konon jasad sang naga itu yang menjadi bukit dan karang yang mengelilingi Kota Tapaktuan. Sedangkan jejak Tuan Pertapa ketika melontarkan tongkat saktinya berbekas di batu karang yang sekarang ada di tepi pantai. Demikian pula tongkat saktinya yang kemudian menjadi batu.

It seems it was the body of this dragon that became the hills and coral reefs that surround Tapaktuan City. Even a footprint of Master Ascetic, when throwing his supernatural power staff, was left in the coral stone on the beach. Likewise his supernatural power staff afterwards also turned to stone.

Dari legenda rakyat itu disebutkan pula Tapak si Tuan Pertapa itulah yang kemudian berkembang menjadi Tapaktuan, nama ibukota kabupaten penghasil pala terbesar di NAD.

It is from this people's legend, which was also called Footprint of Master Ascetic, that afterwards developed into Master's Footprint (Tapaktuan), the name of the capital of the regency which is the biggest producer of nutmeg in NAD.

The gate keeper of Tuan Pertapa's tomb invites us to enter. The grave is closer to 10 metres long, by my estimation.

Sampai sekarang kita masih bisa menyaksikan kuburan Tuan Pertapa Yang panjangnya tujuh meter. Untuk manusia, ukuran sepanjang itu tentu luar biasa. Dan belakangan juga dibuat patung naga di salah satu sudut Kota Tapaktuan. Patung Naga muncul dari dalam gua batu yang semak bagaikan siap me-mangsa.

Up until now we can still witness the tomb of Master Ascetic with a length of seven metres. For humankind, this measurement is certainly extraordinary. And later a dragon statue was made in one corner of Tapaktuan City. The Dragon statue emerges from inside an overgrown rock cave, as though ready to take his prey.

Kurang percaya diri __.-^-.__ Less than self confident

Ketika kami turun ke lantai satu Hotel Dian Rana tersebut, kami mendapatkan restoran yang sepi pengunjung. Restoran itu sengaja dibangun menghadap pantai sehingga tamu tetap dapat menikmati suasana alam yang damai.

The moment we descended to the ground floor of the Dian Rana Hotel, we got a quiet restaurant with few visitors. The restaurant was built facing the beach, the guests able to continually enjoy the atmosphere of peaceful nature.

Tetapi yang membuat kami terkesiap adalah ketika menyaksikan ada beberapa tiang direstoran itu yang dibalut kain sarung kotak-kotak hitam putih seperti yang selalu kita saksikan di Pulau Bali. Apakah ada orang Hindu di Tapaktuan, tanya kami di dalam hati. Ternyata tidak ada orang Hindu di sana. Bagi orang Hindu Bali, sarung kotak-kotak hitam putih adalah pakaian adat untuk keperluan ritual. Dan jika kain sarung kotak-kotak itu dibalutkan ke satu pohon, dipercaya bahwa di pohon tersebut terdapat penunggunya sehingga perlu diberikan sesajen.

Restoran di Hotel Dian Rana, Tapaktuan yang meniru pernak-pernik Hindu Bali dengan kain sarung kotak-kotak hitam putih membalut tiang The restaurant in the Dian Rana Hotel, Tapaktuan, which imitates the complexities of Hindu Bali with white and black chequered sarongs wrapping the pillars

But what made us come to attention was when we observed several pillars in the restaurant that that were wrapped in black and white chequered sarongs, like we always see in the Island of Bali. Are there Hindu people in Tapaktuan, we asked ourselves. Evidently there aren't any Hindu people there. For Hindu Balinese, the white and black chequered sarongs are traditional clothing for ritual needs. And when the chequered sarong is wrapped around a tree, it is believed that there is a spirit in this tree which needs to be given ritual offerings.

Itu hanya gaya untuk meniru Bali saja Pak, tak ada kaitannya dengan agama Hindu, ujar lelaki penjaga restoran tersebut. Aneh juga memang. Mengapa Aceh Selatan yang Islami harus perlu meniru-niru gaya Hindu Bali sehingga menyiratkan rasa kurang percaya diri. Padahal potensi wisata di NAD pada umumnya dan di Aceh Selatan khususnya tidak kalah dengan Pulau Bali kecuali sarana dan prasarana yang belum sepenuhnya mendukung serta promosi yang belum gencar.

That's only to copy the style of Bali sir, there was no connection with the Hindu religion, said the restaurant's guard. It was also strange indeed. Why does Islamic South Aceh have to imitate the style of Hindu Bali so as to imply a feeling of lacking in self-confidence. In fact in tourism potential, NAD generally and South Aceh especially, don't lose out to Bali Island except in means and the infrastructure that doesn't yet fully support it, as well as promotion which isn't yet ringing out.

Akmal AZ / Zamzamy Surya
- posted by Agam @ 2:34 PM 0 comments

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